Tristan (my 3 year old son), Cheyenne (my 5 year old niece), Savannah (my 10 year old niece) and I will set off from my house to my Mom's. Sometime next weekend. I don't like giving 100% specifics on the interwebs. LMAO!
Mapquest gives me three options. The funny thing is it use to only give 2 but I always took the third and Tom Tom kept me from getting lost on the way down. But I never paid enough attention so I couldn't find my way home. I will show you the options and my pros and cons of each because I really can't decide which to take. I always travel late at night, leaving between 2 am and 4 am. Making the 7 ish hour drive, for two reasons the kids sleep and less people are on the roads.
Route #1: Est. Fuel Cost- $42.55
Pros: Fastest
Cons: Why go north west to go south east? I just can't get around that. Plus it puts me on the Capital Beltway and I really hate that!
http://www.mapquest.com/?version=1.0&hk=2-zAWYHb6a
Route #2: Est. Fuel Cost- $37.75
Pros: This is the route I always take and love. I just kind of winged it though.
Cons: It is lots of woods and small two lane roads at times. So the speed limit drops and you have to be vigilant looking for deer.
http://www.mapquest.com/?version=1.0&hk=4-gQOLb6nU
Route #3: Est. Fuel Cost- $46.53
Pros: I am not sure of any.
Cons: I have never take this route. It is the longest.
http://www.mapquest.com/?version=1.0&hk=8-tjkVesAH
Monday, July 30, 2012
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
Introducing Belle
Who has lovingly replaced Oliver.
2012 Dodge Avenger SXT Sedan
Included Packages
- UConnect Voice Command w/Bluetooth ($395)
- Bluetooth Streaming Audio
- Remote USB Port
- Rear View Auto Dim Mirror w/Microphone
- Wheels: 18" Aluminum ($295)
- Goodyear Brand Tires
- Engine: 2.4L I4 PZEV 16V Dual VVT ($0)
- 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank
Additional Options
- California Emissions
- Premium Cloth Bucket Seats
- Quick Order Package 26U
- Transmission: 6-Speed Automatic
Features
- ENTERTAINMENT FEATURES
- Radio data system
- Wireless phone connectivity
- MP3 decoder
- AM/FM radio
- Speakers: 6
- Steering wheel mounted audio controls
- CD player
- SEATS AND TRIM
- Max seating capacity: 5
- Rear seats: bench
- Front seats: bucket
- Front center armrest: w/storage
- Power driver seat
- Rear seat center armrest
- Split folding rear seat
- WARRANTY
- Basic warranty: 36 months/36,000miles
- Roadside assistance coverage: 36 months/36,000miles
- Powertrain warranty: 60 months/100,000miles
- Corrosion perforation warranty: 60 months/100,000miles
- CONVENIENCE FEATURES
- 1-touch down
- Driver vanity mirror
- Tilt steering wheel
- Auto-dimming rearview mirror
- Air conditioning
- Front beverage holders
- Speed control
- Illuminated entry
- Rear door bins
- Telescoping steering wheel
- Automatic temperature control
- Rear beverage holders
- Power windows
- Passenger door bin
- Remote keyless entry
- Passenger vanity mirror
- Driver door bin
- BODY EXTERIOR
- Door mirrors: body-color
- Power door mirrors
- Bumpers: body-color
- Heated door mirrors
- LIGHTING, VISIBILITY AND INSTRUMENTATION
- Outside temperature display
- Tachometer
- Trip computer
- Front reading lights
- Delay-off headlights
- Variably intermittent wipers
- Compass
- Rear window defroster
- Low tire pressure warning
- Speed sensitive wipers
- Rear reading lights
- SAFETY AND SECURITY
- Traction control
- Brake assist
- Electronic stability
- Adjustable head restraints: driver and passenger w/tilt
- Dual front impact airbags
- ABS brakes
- Perimeter/approach lights
- Security system
- Dual front side impact airbags
- Anti-whiplash front head restraints
- 4 wheel disc brakes
- Panic alarm
- Overhead airbag
- Ignition disable
Tech Specs
- POWERTRAIN
- Fuel economy city: 20mpg
- Horsepower: 173hp @ 6,000RPM
- Fuel economy highway: 31mpg
- Variable valve control
- Engine liters: 2.4
- Manual-shift auto: AUTOSTICK
- Sequential multi-point fuel injection
- Fuel tank capacity: 18.5gal.
- Cylinder configuration: I-4
- Engine location: front
- Recommended fuel: regular unleaded
- Torque: 166 lb.-ft. @ 4,400RPM
- Variable intake manifold
- Drive type: front-wheel
- Number of valves: 16
- SUSPENSION/HANDLING
- Front tires: 225/50HR18.0
- Rear tires: 225/50HR18.0
- Wheel size: 18"
- Four wheel independent suspension
- Rear anti-roll bar
- Power steering
- Front anti-roll bar
- Alloy wheels
- SPECS AND DIMENSIONS
- Compression ratio: 10.50 to 1
- Engine horsepower: 173hp @ 6,000RPM
- Rear legroom: 919mm (36.2")
- Turning radius: 5.6m (18.3')
- Passenger volume: 2,837L (100.2 cu.ft.)
- Exterior height: 1,483mm (58.4")
- Front shoulder room: 1,430mm (56.3")
- Wheelbase: 2,766mm (108.9")
- Exterior body width: 1,849mm (72.8")
- Towing capacity: 454kg (1,000lbs)
- Engine bore x stroke: 88.0mm x 97.0mm (3.46" x 3.82")
- Rear hiproom: 1,341mm (52.8")
- Rear headroom: 973mm (38.3")
- Air Pollution Score (AP): 6
- Interior maximum cargo volume: 382 L (13 cu.ft.)
- Front legroom: 1,077mm (42.4")
- Greenhouse Gas Score (GG): 5
- Engine displacement: 2.4 L
- Exterior length: 4,892mm (192.6")
- Engine torque: 166 lb.-ft. @ 4,400RPM
- Rear shoulder room: 1,422mm (56.0")
- Interior cargo volume: 382 L (13 cu.ft.)
- GVWR: 2,087kg (4,600lbs)
- Front hiproom: 1,336mm (52.6")
Monday, July 23, 2012
Saying Goodbye to Oliver
I bought Oliver in 2004 when he was a small boy. I then lovingly put over 270,000 miles on him over the past 8 years. Oliver decided Saturday that he didn't want to play well with others anymore. Seemingly me! So Oliver must go. Tristan is very sad about this. Even though Oliver hasn't had working air conditioning in 2+ years. Mama is sad to see him go too. But I need more room. Especially with a growing boy.
In 2008 I sat in him by our house on the bay and watched a hurricane come in.
Also in 2008 I trusted him to cart around my newborn baby boy.
He had a loving home in the garage.
He got to see double rainbows.
I even let him stay inside when we got 22+" of snow in the winter of 2010 in a 3 day period.
We sat in tons of traffic together over the years.
I took him on many adventures.
Sometimes I was a bad Mom and accidentally left him in the snow.
We saw lots of beautiful skies together.
I took lots of fun pictures while driving him.
He took good care of Tristan.
We saw many odd things on the road. I am not sure which of these is worse!
I had a ton of fun with Oliver and I will miss him.
In 2008 I sat in him by our house on the bay and watched a hurricane come in.
Also in 2008 I trusted him to cart around my newborn baby boy.
He had a loving home in the garage.
He got to see double rainbows.
I even let him stay inside when we got 22+" of snow in the winter of 2010 in a 3 day period.
We sat in tons of traffic together over the years.
I took him on many adventures.
Sometimes I was a bad Mom and accidentally left him in the snow.
We saw lots of beautiful skies together.
I took lots of fun pictures while driving him.
He took good care of Tristan.
We saw many odd things on the road. I am not sure which of these is worse!
I had a ton of fun with Oliver and I will miss him.
Friday, July 20, 2012
Hat Day at School
In the summer months they have spirit day at Tristan's school. He couldn't decide which of his 3 favorite hats to wear so he took and wore all three. Love my little man.
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
ISO/Shutter Speed Basic Training
Full PDF of this week's lesson: http://sites.google.com/site/biowbiow002/02-ISOShutterSpeed.pdf
Short Recap:
ISO, or film speed, is really just a setting to determine how quickly an image will be captured by either the film or digital sensor. The higher the ISO, the quicker the image will be captured and the less light that is required.
The lower the ISO, the longer it takes for the image to be captured and the more light you will need.
general rule of thumb:
100 - 200 sunny and outdoors
400 in the shade, overcast, indoors with good light
800 - 1600 indoors, low light conditions, sports or action
Shutter Speed
After you’ve considered your ISO it’s time to think about shutter speed.
Your shutter speed is how quickly the shutter, or the little door that opens in front of your film or image sensor, operates. It can range from several seconds (or minutes on the Bulb setting) to 1/1600 of a second or faster. It might help to visualize your shutter literally as a door, with your shutter speed controlling how fast or how slow the door opens and closes. A faster shutter speed will freeze action whereas a slower shutter speed can create a blurred effect (or can just be downright blurry.) When you set your shutter speed on your camera, you’ll see numbers like 60, 120, 250, 1000 and so on. These actually represent 1/60th of a second, 1/120th of a second and so on. So the higher the bottom number on the fraction, the faster the shutter speed. The smaller the number, the slower the shutter speed. You will also see shutter speeds for seconds, indicated by inch marks ("). For example, if the display says 1"5, that indicates a shutter speed of 1½ seconds. If the display says 30", the shutter will be open for 30 seconds.
general rule of thumb:
use a tripod or flat surface to steady your hand for anything 1/50th or under
if you are handholding, use a minimum of 1/60th. Hold your breath while taking the photo to reduce camera shake.
fast moving objects require at least 1/1000 to freeze the action.
Weekly Challenge: Kitchen Sink Test
Set your camera to Shutter Speed Priority (S or TV mode). If you are inside, set the ISO between 1000 - 1600.
1. Find your kitchen sink (that shouldn’t be too hard.)
2. Now locate an object that is going to obstruct the water flowing from the faucet, like a cup. Place it below the running water.
3. Set your shutter speed to 1/80th of a second (indicated by the number 80.) Turn on the water and take the picture.
4. Now set your shutter really high (around 1/1000 of a second or higher) and take the photo again.
***Bonus points: Grab your tripod and set up your shot again using a really slow shutter speed, such as half a second, indicated as 0"5, or 1 second, indicated as 1". What effect does that give you? In what situations can you use this effect?****
1/60:
1/1000:
.05:
Short Recap:
ISO, or film speed, is really just a setting to determine how quickly an image will be captured by either the film or digital sensor. The higher the ISO, the quicker the image will be captured and the less light that is required.
The lower the ISO, the longer it takes for the image to be captured and the more light you will need.
general rule of thumb:
100 - 200 sunny and outdoors
400 in the shade, overcast, indoors with good light
800 - 1600 indoors, low light conditions, sports or action
Shutter Speed
After you’ve considered your ISO it’s time to think about shutter speed.
Your shutter speed is how quickly the shutter, or the little door that opens in front of your film or image sensor, operates. It can range from several seconds (or minutes on the Bulb setting) to 1/1600 of a second or faster. It might help to visualize your shutter literally as a door, with your shutter speed controlling how fast or how slow the door opens and closes. A faster shutter speed will freeze action whereas a slower shutter speed can create a blurred effect (or can just be downright blurry.) When you set your shutter speed on your camera, you’ll see numbers like 60, 120, 250, 1000 and so on. These actually represent 1/60th of a second, 1/120th of a second and so on. So the higher the bottom number on the fraction, the faster the shutter speed. The smaller the number, the slower the shutter speed. You will also see shutter speeds for seconds, indicated by inch marks ("). For example, if the display says 1"5, that indicates a shutter speed of 1½ seconds. If the display says 30", the shutter will be open for 30 seconds.
general rule of thumb:
use a tripod or flat surface to steady your hand for anything 1/50th or under
if you are handholding, use a minimum of 1/60th. Hold your breath while taking the photo to reduce camera shake.
fast moving objects require at least 1/1000 to freeze the action.
Weekly Challenge: Kitchen Sink Test
Set your camera to Shutter Speed Priority (S or TV mode). If you are inside, set the ISO between 1000 - 1600.
1. Find your kitchen sink (that shouldn’t be too hard.)
2. Now locate an object that is going to obstruct the water flowing from the faucet, like a cup. Place it below the running water.
3. Set your shutter speed to 1/80th of a second (indicated by the number 80.) Turn on the water and take the picture.
4. Now set your shutter really high (around 1/1000 of a second or higher) and take the photo again.
***Bonus points: Grab your tripod and set up your shot again using a really slow shutter speed, such as half a second, indicated as 0"5, or 1 second, indicated as 1". What effect does that give you? In what situations can you use this effect?****
1/60:
1/1000:
.05:
Wednesday, July 11, 2012
Aperture Basic Training
12 Weeks to Better Photos
by Joanna Bolick (Two Peas in a Bucket)
Week #1: Aperture basic training
One of the most necessary but oftentimes least understood parts of photography is Aperture. The size of the aperture, or f/stop, of a lens determines how much of your photograph is in focus. Generally, when you hear someone talk about f/stop, they are referring to aperture -- the terms are often used interchangeably. The f/stop on a lens can go from 1.2 to 22 or sometimes higher. (It’s not really important to this class for you to understand the mathematical basis for these numbers, but instead to understand what they mean to your photography.)
F/stops can be confusing at first. The f/stop numbers refer to how open or closed the aperture on the lens is. The wider the opening of the lens, the greater the amount of light that enters your camera at one time – which means that when your aperture is wide open your focus will be shallower and fewer things in your photo will be in focus.
The WIDER the aperture, the more light that comes through the camera -- because a lot of light is flowing through the aperture opening LESS of your photo will be in focus. A low f/stop, such as f/1.4 or f/2.8, is considered a wide-open aperture.
The SMALLER the aperture, the less light allowed -- because there is very little light flowing through the aperture MORE of your photo will be in focus.
The smaller the opening on the lens, the smaller the amount of light that is allowed to enter your camera at one time – which means your focus is deeper and more of your photo will be in focus.
The confusion for most people arrives when you try and put the f/stop number with these scenarios. In terms of aperture openings, f/1.4 would be a wide-open aperture on most high-end lenses, whereas f/22 would be a virtually closed aperture.
Basically, when you use a low f/stop, less of your photo will be in focus. When you use a higher f/stop, MORE of your photo will be in focus.
WEEKLY CHALLENGE: Exploring Aperture
First of all, we want you to operate your camera in Aperture Priority mode (often
indicated with an “A” or an “Av” on your camera dial. (Don’t worry about shutter speed as the camera will take care of that for you.) The goal of this challenge is to discover what different f/stop settings on your camera will produce for you and to become more
comfortable with selecting these settings to fit your subject.
The easiest way to do this is to find a fixed subject such as a flower, a tree limb, or in our case, a birdbath. (If you are outside in daylight, set your ISO to around 400. We highly recommend you try this first challenge outdoors, if it’s not too cold for you! If you are inside, you may have to set the ISO on your camera much higher like 1250 or even 1600. Your photos will be grainy, but you should still be able to tell what your aperture setting is doing to your photos.)
1. Set your f/stop (often accomplished by turning a dial, but check your manual if
you’re not sure) to the lowest setting it will go. Compose your image and use
either the manual focus or autofocus to focus on one particular spot of your
subject (the subject of our photos was the frontmost rim of the birdbath, and
we made sure to focus on this for all 3 photos). Take your picture.
2. Move your aperture setting to something around f/8. Compose and
refocus on the same element again. Take your picture.
3. Move your aperture setting to the highest setting it will go to (most likely
f/22). Compose and focus on the same element again. Take your picture.
Now bring these pictures into your image editing program and look at the differences in the composition.
1. On the first image, you will have very little outside the initial focus point in focus.
My Example: F/3.5
2. On the second image, you will have more of your subject in focus, but still will maintain a pleasing background blur that separates your subject from the background elements.
My Example: F/8.0
3. On your final image, you will most likely have virtually everything in front and behind your subject in focus.
My Example: F/22.0
by Joanna Bolick (Two Peas in a Bucket)
Week #1: Aperture basic training
One of the most necessary but oftentimes least understood parts of photography is Aperture. The size of the aperture, or f/stop, of a lens determines how much of your photograph is in focus. Generally, when you hear someone talk about f/stop, they are referring to aperture -- the terms are often used interchangeably. The f/stop on a lens can go from 1.2 to 22 or sometimes higher. (It’s not really important to this class for you to understand the mathematical basis for these numbers, but instead to understand what they mean to your photography.)
F/stops can be confusing at first. The f/stop numbers refer to how open or closed the aperture on the lens is. The wider the opening of the lens, the greater the amount of light that enters your camera at one time – which means that when your aperture is wide open your focus will be shallower and fewer things in your photo will be in focus.
The WIDER the aperture, the more light that comes through the camera -- because a lot of light is flowing through the aperture opening LESS of your photo will be in focus. A low f/stop, such as f/1.4 or f/2.8, is considered a wide-open aperture.
The SMALLER the aperture, the less light allowed -- because there is very little light flowing through the aperture MORE of your photo will be in focus.
The smaller the opening on the lens, the smaller the amount of light that is allowed to enter your camera at one time – which means your focus is deeper and more of your photo will be in focus.
The confusion for most people arrives when you try and put the f/stop number with these scenarios. In terms of aperture openings, f/1.4 would be a wide-open aperture on most high-end lenses, whereas f/22 would be a virtually closed aperture.
Basically, when you use a low f/stop, less of your photo will be in focus. When you use a higher f/stop, MORE of your photo will be in focus.
WEEKLY CHALLENGE: Exploring Aperture
First of all, we want you to operate your camera in Aperture Priority mode (often
indicated with an “A” or an “Av” on your camera dial. (Don’t worry about shutter speed as the camera will take care of that for you.) The goal of this challenge is to discover what different f/stop settings on your camera will produce for you and to become more
comfortable with selecting these settings to fit your subject.
The easiest way to do this is to find a fixed subject such as a flower, a tree limb, or in our case, a birdbath. (If you are outside in daylight, set your ISO to around 400. We highly recommend you try this first challenge outdoors, if it’s not too cold for you! If you are inside, you may have to set the ISO on your camera much higher like 1250 or even 1600. Your photos will be grainy, but you should still be able to tell what your aperture setting is doing to your photos.)
1. Set your f/stop (often accomplished by turning a dial, but check your manual if
you’re not sure) to the lowest setting it will go. Compose your image and use
either the manual focus or autofocus to focus on one particular spot of your
subject (the subject of our photos was the frontmost rim of the birdbath, and
we made sure to focus on this for all 3 photos). Take your picture.
2. Move your aperture setting to something around f/8. Compose and
refocus on the same element again. Take your picture.
3. Move your aperture setting to the highest setting it will go to (most likely
f/22). Compose and focus on the same element again. Take your picture.
Now bring these pictures into your image editing program and look at the differences in the composition.
1. On the first image, you will have very little outside the initial focus point in focus.
My Example: F/3.5
2. On the second image, you will have more of your subject in focus, but still will maintain a pleasing background blur that separates your subject from the background elements.
My Example: F/8.0
3. On your final image, you will most likely have virtually everything in front and behind your subject in focus.
My Example: F/22.0
Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Photography Tutorials: DSLR Basics Switch from Auto to Manual
I am starting a new series of tutorials teaching people how to go from auto to manual. TRUST me shooting in manual will give you a ton of creative control. So come along and learn with me. My first post will be tomorrow on Wednesday and I will try to post weekly.
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